24 JAN 2013 SNOW, ICE and ABANDONED BIKES

Well since our last blog, things have changed dramatically and we have moved forward at the speed of light to what should be two months from now. We are now sat in a nice little B&B, looking out over the snow covered streets of Quebec Canada, watching the sparkling shapes of ice stars join together to take over the entire window pane. So let us tell why we are so far north when it seems we have only just left the warmth of the pacific coast of southern Mexico – And no, we did not fly!

Leaving San Miguel de Allende, we had decided that it was time to start making our way home. We would pass through the rest of Mexico within days to reach to USA, then make our way eastwards towards the north east of Canada where we could put the bikes on a cargo ship in Halifax, sending them back to Europe.

CRABS EVERYWHERE!

CRABS EVERYWHERE!

We passed through the north of Mexico without being jumped, kidnapped or forced to carry drugs over the border, which was a happy relief, making it into Texas fairly easily. By easily, I mean we didn’t have any problems with the officials, but we did have to cross the ‘invisible line’ several times before we managed to sign ourselves out of Mexico properly. We assume, naturally, that this is a deliberate ploy by the Mexican government to facilitate major problems if one wants to return to Mexico at some point in the future, therefore allowing the justification of bribes by immigration at that later date…!?! No? Perhaps we were just half asleep then.

SAMS MAKES IT TO TEXAS IN RECORD TIME TOO!

SAMS MAKES IT TO TEXAS IN RECORD TIME TOO!

We got a fair way into Texas that afternoon, stopping in a pretty Germanic town called Frederiksburg, just east of Austin. Exhausted from our long day, we merrily settled ourselves in a very homely little cabin that cost us over three times our usual budget. We didn’t care. We were too tired to worry about looking around, and the owner, Melanie, was so accommodating, we couldn’t decline. The draw of the hot tub was just too much!

Settling into our wine later that evening, we just had to accept that, nice as the ‘B&B’ cabin was, we just couldn’t be afford these sorts of prices up through the States and would have to buy a tent. What we didn’t know at the time was that the States were experiencing a bit of a mild heat wave. Or rather, a thawing out of the freezing cold.

COZY

COZY

NO SAM! ITS NOT FOR YOU!

NO SAM! ITS NOT FOR YOU!

CHICKEN IN THE BATH!

CHICKEN IN THE BATH!

The next morning, Melanie very kindly offered to let us stay a second night, at no extra cost! How wonderful! And how lovely of her!  Okay, so the cost of the pricey cabin just halved, but even that was still over our budget – damn, we still needed to buy a tent.

Of course, the only place where you can buy anything in the States is Walmart. We wandered up and down the quaint high street, looking into shops full of ‘antiques’, nicks and knacks, and the like. But could we find any shops that sold anything useful? No.

We were told time and again, Walmart, Walmart, Walmart. So we gave in to that Godforsaken place and trudged through the doors of the hyper-hyper-market to go and find ourselves a cheap tent… “Yes madam, we have tents, they are on the aisle 14 with the fishing rods, between the diapers and the machine guns…”  Oh…! Yes, Walmart sell guns. It’s like walking into Tesco and asking for a semi-automatic – Yes Sir, they’re over there, behind the pharmacy section…

Cheap tent in hand, we walked the mile and a bit back to the high street, on the road and across people’s lawns because there are no pavements, (nobody walks anywhere!), to a nice little bar where there was some live music and some good food for lunch. We sat outside, listened to the music and took in the fresh air before heading back to our quaint little cabin.

HOWDY Y-ALL!

HOWDY Y-ALL!

GARFIELD!

GARFIELD!

That night, the temperature dropped about 50 degrees. Somewhat surprised, we packed up the bikes, storing our newly bought tent on the back on Chris’s bike. That’s tonight’s accommodation sorted!

Two days later, we had still not used the tent. The temperature had plummeted even further. We were making about 50 miles in a whole morning’s ride because we kept having to stop to warm up our extremities which had frozen stiff in the space of 10 minutes flat. Then we found out that the temperature had actually dipped below zero, and with the wind chill factor, it must have felt about minus 15… no wonder we were freezing our bits off!  Okay, that was enough. We weren’t getting anywhere fast and we were in danger of losing digits, so we stopped in a McDonalds for free WiFi, booked ourselves a van, and picked it up from around the corner! Easy as that!  

ITS A SAD DAY!

ITS A SAD DAY!

ROOM FOR A SMALL ONE?

ROOM FOR A SMALL ONE?

STIG?

U-HAUL STIG?

Within an hour, we went from almost crying from the pain of the cold, to sitting in a nice cosy van with the heat blasting out! Amazing! Chris took the controls, Chloe took the map, and for the first time on the whole of the trip, we could actually sit next to each other and chat away, while on the road. The novelty of the situation lasted about 10 minutes before the reality of the fact that we were in a van sunk in.

LETS SEE HOW FAST THIS THING CAN GO!

LETS SEE HOW FAST THIS THING CAN GO!

2 DOWN 48 TO GO

2 DOWN 48 TO GO

SUPERVISOR SAM

SUPERVISOR SAM

We made quick progress in the van. We didn’t have to stop every five minutes to warm up, we could eat and drink while driving, (exciting new novelty!), and we could also steam on ahead in the wet, wind, rain and snow, in the dusk and in the dark. Indeed we had to make quick progress because the van rental was only contracted to us for eight days. We had paid a fortune for that, so any extra days would cost even more… Suddenly our five-to-six week’s road trip up through the States was going to be compacted into eight days.

We spoke to the shipping company in Halifax about bringing our dates forward – What was the availability on cargo ships leaving in the next few weeks…? There was a ship leaving on the 28th January, from Halifax to Zeebrugge (Belgium) that we could put the bikes on. They would however need our bikes in the port a week before, no later than the 22nd January. Wow, that was soon… but that was actually the eighth day of our rental, so we’d have to be there by then anyway. Five minutes later we had the bikes booked on the ship leaving Halifax on the 28th January. Crikey!

ALL WE NEED NOW IS THUNDER AND LIGHTENING

ALL WE NEED NOW IS THUNDER AND LIGHTENING

NO THUNDER AND LIGHTENING BUT PLENTY RAIN & SLEET!

NO THUNDER AND LIGHTENING BUT PLENTY RAIN & SLEET!

13_01_15 TEXAS LOUISIANA MISSISSIPPI (22)

We steamed through the states, passing through Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Tennessee and Virginia in three days. It was getting colder and colder, and our tent purchase seemed the more and more ridiculous!

We searched out the cheapest accommodation for the first couple of nights, cheap being not-so-cheap at $45. That price landed us in dreary motels with yellowing walls and stale smoke hanging in the air and seeping out of the soft furnishings. The ash tray next to the bed reminded us that the ‘no smoking in public places’ law has still not reached the States yet. Waking up with a stuffy nose, throaty cough and everything smelling of smoke wasn’t pleasant.

After that we decided to up our budget so we could at least go to some newer motels that had ‘non-smoking’ rooms. Ahhhh… I can now breathe again! That is surely worth blowing the budget for…!

RUN FORREST RUN!

RUN FORREST RUN!

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (2)

KNIGHT RIDER

KNIGHT RIDER

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (5)

End of day three in the van we get an email to ‘urgently phone the shipping agents’. Oh no… problems…! It turned out that the dates we had been given had changed…  Nooooo….!!! The ship we were booked onto was now no longer scheduled to call at Halifax on that sailing. We would have to wait another two weeks for the next ship. Not good. Or, the alternative – pick up the ship in the port of Baltimore, just outside of Washington DC, leaving on the 27th January. But because of bank holidays and weekends, it would mean us dropping our bikes off no later than ‘tomorrow’…!  Tomorrow…?! Looking at the map, we realised that we were only a few hours drive from Washington DC, and hence, also the port at Baltimore… my goodness, we could make it!  So we phoned the agent back, explained the situation, and changed the booking for Baltimore, dropping off the bikes in the morning.

There was nothing else for it then. Only three hours away, we just had to make a trip into Washington DC and go and see if the President was home. We knocked, but he was busy… oh well!

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (13)

SECRET SERVICE TRAINED GEESE!

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (10)

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (18)

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (22)

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (23)

The next morning we trundled to the port. Only one person per vehicle was allowed to enter the port, so Chloe got chucked out of the van and Chris continued on in, depositing our lifeless and empty bikes in a port side warehouse. A quick and untimely end to their adventure. They never made it to Canada, but we were still determined to make it, whether it be on two wheels or four!

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (25)

Still with days and miles available on our already paid-for van; we said our farewells to the bikes and continued on northwards. As we no longer needed to be in Halifax, we decided to take a different route, north-west, through Pennsylvania and New York state to Niagara Falls, then onto the picturesque 1000 Islands region via the south side of Lake Ontario.

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (30)

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (39)

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (43)

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (44)

WHO NAMES A VILLAGE ‘KILL BUCK’!?

Temperatures were falling. Ice and snow began building up, and by the time we got to Niagara, we were worried it would all be frozen! Luckily there was still some water, but the river below was freezing over, creating an ice mountain at the base of the falls. It was at this point that Chris decided that he needed a warm winter coat, and his windproof riding jacket with a fine woollen v-neck jumper on underneath just wasn’t going to be enough!

At this point we are talking minus 20 degrees air temperature….. fair point – I suppose we’ll let him get away with that one then!

POOR NIAGRA!

POOR NIAGARA!

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (49)

After seeing Iguazu Falls on the border of Argentina and Brazil, one really does think “poor Niagara”….

Back on the road towards Canada, we decided we’d put off crossing the border a little longer, turned away from the bridge crossing at Niagara and drove along the south side of Lake Ontario towards 1000 Islands.

And yes! That is where the 1000 Island salad dressing comes from! 

OH OH!

OH OH!

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (60)

13_01_20 TENNESSEE to WASHINGTON DC to CANADA (59)

After driving around the lovely but deserted tourist town of Alexandria for enough time to know that absolutely every single hotel, motel, B&B and hostel was closed for the season, we went back out onto the main road to find ourselves another typical roadside motel. But this time we weren’t disappointed… the rooms were newly refurbished, smoke free and there was a ‘local’ next door.

A local where we could meet the real country people of America. So that’s where we met Curt, Curt’s lovely wife, Ben and Wanda. And that is where Curt introduced Chris to ‘Quick Draw’ gambling…! This game is on the TV all night, and is a lottery with numbers changing every three minutes. Madness. As you can imagine, Chris took to it like a kid in a sweetie shop. The fact that he came away at the end of the night $60 up kept his spirits high for at least an hour….!  Just don’t mention that he actually spent $50 out of his wallet along the way…! We’re still up though!

MORE FRIENDS!

MORE FRIENDS!

IM SURE THERE IS A SYSTEM TO WINING!

IM SURE THERE IS A SYSTEM TO WINING!

Next morning we made the plunge and crossed the bridge into CANADA!!!  Woohoo! We made it! From Argentina to Canada – we’ve done it, mission accomplished! Just don’t mention the bikes….!

13_01_22 CANADA (3)

13_01_22 CANADA (4)

13_01_22 CANADA (1)

So. We are here. In a van with nothing in the back but some dry bags with our kit in them… We’ve now made it to Quebec where the temperature is minus 40 degrees C.

Chris has now bought himself a big down jacket and Chloe has dusted off the one she bought in Chile 12 months ago. Our Spanish is completely useless and our middle-school French isn’t good enough. What an ending!

Anyone want to buy a tent?! 

But it’s not quite the end yet. We still have a couple more weeks before we fly home. In the meantime, we will  be out enjoying the below freezing temperatures  in Quebec, slipping up in Spanish, saying “sí” instead of “oui”, and “gracias” instead of “merci”, (both of which have already happened numerous times), and the best bit – finally being able to eat some decent cheese!! Viva Quebec!

13_01_24 QUEBEC (22)

13_01_24 QUEBEC (25)

13_01_24 QUEBEC (31)

BRING OUT THE GIMP!

BRING OUT THE GIMP!

13_01_24 QUEBEC (18)

13_01_24 QUEBEC (9)

ITS A GOODBYE FROM HIM AND A GOODBYE FROM HER!

ITS A GOODBYE FROM HIM AND A GOODBYE FROM HER!

Nights spent in crap cheap tent                                            Chloe 0 v 0 Chris

Hamburgers eaten since entering the USA                     Chloe 5 v 4 Chris

Salad or vegetables eaten since entering the USA       Chloe 1 v 0 Chris

Times said “parlez-vous anglais?” in two days               Chloe 8 v 2 Chris

Been pulled over speeding in the van                                 Chloe 0 v 1 Chris

Snapped off door handle to van                                            Chloe 0 v 1 Chris

. . . . .  ANYONE NEED AN ARCHITECT (OR TWO?!)

This entry was posted in Chile. Bookmark the permalink.

28 Responses to 24 JAN 2013 SNOW, ICE and ABANDONED BIKES

  1. I’m sorry you feel that way Swampy. If we had set out to write a book of fiction, then yes, i’m sure that may be seen as a bit of a floppy ending. Unfortunately, (or fortunately), this is not fiction – we did not do this trip, or write it up, purely to please our readers. We did this trip for ourselves. We saved up, quit our jobs and embarked on an adventure having not ridden motorbikes ever before in our lives. For us, this was somewhat of a feat… 18 months riding from Argentina to Canada (or to the US if you want to be technical) – Either way, it was a pretty big deal for us. I’m sorry if you feel let down. From your comment, I can only assume the trips you have done in your lifetime are far more adventurous or exotic than this. But for us, it was epic.

    • TRICIA GRANGER says:

      Lol well said you guys- everyone knows that it takes gumption, willpower, attention to detail, exacting planning and willful determination to travel around a continent and to do what you both have done;) I wonder if more people took time out of their busy, often times (necessarily) selfish lives to quit the rat race, do something unique, and challenging yet still stop and take time to complete amazing altruistic acts that benefit the communities that you are travelling through, then we might all get a bit more understanding of what you guys have done here!
      You may be family but you are definitely both my heroes;) Mostly because I just know that you’ve listened and talked and befriended third world people on an equal level,and in this way have been amazing ambassadors for Brits abroad- much more so than the consumerist fly by hordes that we have ( unfortunately become)…
      And the trip will be with you (and now us) always, regardless if you write a book! Which incidentally I hope you do.Moreover think of the great memories you now have for yourselves in the future.I’m sure I speak for everyone else-you guys have done an epic trip!
      Sorry you had to get back to the rat rat slightly sooner than you maybe hoped but no less in awe of your achievements…..
      Much love and respect Txx

  2. Nick and Jean Kent says:

    Congratulations to you both. A wonderful trip with some great memories. As you said in another reply, you can always return to do North America.
    Just gutted we will have no more updates to read. But you have been inspirational, and we can discuss that when we see you next. Just need a way to stay in touch. I assume from this you will have my email and you message us on Facebook.
    Well Done both

  3. Hi Chris and Chloe congrats on completing your trip rolled into Ushuaia today so no the feeling of a job well done problem is what now🙂 enjoy the moment and the snow and start planning the next biggie

    groetjes

    Phill
    phillysbigtrip.wordpress.com

  4. Kate T says:

    Amazing stuff, Grangers! We are looking forward to the returning party already, (and hoping that the new addition will have made it to the party by then…!) Am currently so big I’m visible from space – weather forecasters have me on their maps🙂

    Hope that the last few weeks of the adventure have some tales (am sure that they will!) See you soon :-)))) Love Kate xx

    • Return party in the planning already! We assume Elliot will be accustomed to knocking back the pints by then, so please bring him along!! 😉
      Can’t wait to see you guys, and of course the wee arrival!
      Lots of love to you all
      C & C x x x

  5. Evans Tomassini says:

    Hey C&C,
    I’m sorry that you had to cut your trip short due to the weather. It was a probably a good thing you did since the closer to Vancouver you got the colder it would have been (with icy roads). I will never forget seeing ACS Technology on the library wall in Bolivia. and you also inspired me to hopefully make a difference in people’s lives when I do my trip.

    If you ever decide to try it again or if you’re in the Seattle, WA area you have a standing invitation to camp out at my house, I have plenty of room and I feel like I know you two already.Like Rick said, I would love to hear the stories you didn’t share🙂. The Pacific NorthWest is a beautiful place to visit, it will be well worth it. Too bad you couldn’t store your bikes somewhere and come back another time. Take care and thanks for sharing your trip with us.

    Evans

    • Thanks Evans,
      It was a shame the trip took a quicker turn at the end, but the USA is somewhere we feel is pretty accessible so could easily come back and spend some time in the SUMMER(!) and see the national parks etc. But after nearly 18 months since we left, we are ready to get back and settle for a wee while.
      We’re so glad that you’ve been able to follow us, that you donated to our project, and that we may have helped inspire you in a little way for your trip planning.
      Keep in touch, and let us know if you need any info or advice on your route etc.
      If you make it to South America, make sure you spend as much time as you can in Peru – for riding, and getting off the beaten track, we’d still say Peru has the best routes ever!!!
      Thanks for following! Keep in touch.
      Cheers
      C & C

  6. anna says:

    One AWESOME adventure guys!🙂 well done! xx

  7. Casey Cramant says:

    Wow you made it!! Congratulations, what an adventure!

  8. katie maher says:

    Well Done, I’m so proud of you both – shedding tears of joy for all that you’ve achieved & not letting the demise of the bikes stop the last part of the adventure. So looking forward to seeing you – no doubt you are already planning the party at Tippett — just hope we are not still snowed up when you return. Lots of Love Mum xxxxx

    • Thank you Mum!
      I knew you’d cry…!!😉
      Can’t wait to see you and Dad and Tannus! With a bit of luck, you won’t be on holiday when we ride up the drive! See you soon.
      Lots of love x x x

  9. ruth granger says:

    You dreamt it, you said it,you did it,well done,never mind the pins now ticking the calendar..See you sooooooon.yer mumxxruth.granger

  10. TRICIA GRANGER says:

    wooop wooop wooop!!!
    So proud/ glad/ amazed/ inspired / overjoyed and relieved that you made it!!!!;) and yet a wee bit sad for you that the the adventure is nearly over….( Although you do realise, that you’ve almost given mum a stroke the rate you both passed through the US and her ‘map pin’ sticking couldn’t keep up!!)….lol.
    Will be soooo happy to see you both..and sod it- Ill buy your Walmart tent!
    Big sis…Txx

  11. Zoe Reisman says:

    Wow totally amazing! Can’t believe your nearly back!! Looking forward to a well overdue catch up! xx

    • Yeah, crazy times!!
      Looking forward to catching up and hearing all your news… luckily you’ve been following us so we won’t have to spend a zillion hours boring you with our trip!! 😉
      See you soon!
      C & C x

  12. Marion Watson says:

    Congratulations Chris and Chloe, you made it to Canada, it’s been a trip of a lifetime for you, with memories that will last forever. Thank you for letting us share your experiences along the way.

    • Thanks Marion!
      It’s so lovely to hear from you, and so nice that you’ve been following us! We had no idea! I was sorry not to be at home the other week – I felt a bit lost, being the other side of the World. But we can look to brighter times now.
      Hope you are both well.
      Great to be in touch.
      Much love
      Chloe & Chris x

      • Marion Watson says:

        Hi Chris and Chloe
        Had a little family reunion 4th Feb, in St Asaph, Maher family, cousin’s and spouses.( The older ones)This time it was by choice rather than circumstances, it was great, sorry your mum and dad couldn’t come, everyone else did, we brought our old family photo’s along. Safe journey home
        Best wishes intrepid travellers
        Marion x

  13. Rick Walker says:

    I reckon the van still counts – it only has the same number of wheels as two bikes so what’s he difference?
    Well done to you both! It’s been a privilege sharing your travels over the past umpteen thousand miles, and you will be surprised to hear that your exploits have been followed round the governors table as well.
    Keep in touch when you return – now it’s the stories that didn’t make it to the blog that we want to hear!

    Rick

    • Thanks Rick,
      And thanks for reading – it’s nice to know that some people are interested in what we’ve been doing!
      We will definitely be in touch once we get our feet on the ground.

      C & C

  14. Paul C says:

    You’ve done it! I am proud of you both! What an achievement! Looking forward to a few beers when you get back!

  15. Chris says:

    A swift ending…
    So when do you guys actually fly out, and is it to Zeebrugge your flying to then ride back to the UK from there? (with ferry of course)

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s